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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.